- Milkweed (Asclepias)
- Lupine (Lupinus)
- St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
- Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida)
- Prairie Violet (Viola pedatifida)
- Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa)
- Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
- Perennial Sunflowers (Helianthus)
- Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)
- Rudbeckia (most varieties)
- Coneflower (some varieties)
- Soapwort (Saponaria ocymoides)
- Primrose (Oenothera speciosa)
- Larkspur (Delphinium)
- Shooting Star (Dodecatheon meadia)
- Heliopsis
- Lavender/Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
- Catmint (nepeta)
- Ironweed (Vernonia gigantea)
Prairie Violet
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height 3″ – 6″
Soapwort
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height 6″ – 8″
Violet Sweet Viola Philippicat SeedsI
mage Credit: Carpet Creeping
Height 6″ – 8″
Marsh Marigold
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height 8″ – 24″
Wild Geranium
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height 18″ – 24″
Yellow Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida)
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height: 12″ – 36″ ‘
Summer Sun Heliopsis – Perennial Sunflower
Image Credit: American Meadows
Height: 36″
I also sow Bachelor Buttons and Poppy Seeds for Cold Stratification:
What Is Cold Stratification of Seeds?
Some seeds, especially those of the perennial native wildflowers, need to be placed in a cold place for a period before the time for germination. It is okay if those seeds are stored in a refrigerator, but I choose to sow my seeds outside during the late fall. Winter’s cold weather will stratify those seeds naturally.
Most Annuals Should be Sown After There Is No Risk of Frost
Many Perennial Native Wildflowers Self-Sow, and to Protect Them from the Winter’s Chill, They Are Protected by Tough Skins,
“There are generally two reasons seeds could benefit from cold stratification.
“The seeds of some species go into a period of embryonic dormancy and often will not sprout, or will have a poor germination percentage, until this dormancy is broken.
“Other species have seeds with a very hard seed coat, and exposure to the moist cold helps break down this shell for easier germination in spring. Sometimes you will find that both apply.
“When we let Mother Nature do the work for us, the cold and moist of winter triggers the seed’s growth and subsequent expansion, eventually breaking through the softened seed coat in its search for sun and nutrients. The time needed to stratify seeds depends on species and conditions, though in many cases two months (8 weeks) is sufficient.” Sow True Seed
I live in North Mississippi, and my last frost date is predicted to be April 5. I’ll count backward to see when I should sow seeds for cold stratification. In doing so, I discovered that mid-February is a good time for me to sow seeds for cold stratification: [Keep in mind that people living elsewhere will have different frost dates than I have. Stay tuned to discover the frost dates for your garden’s area.
To find the frost dates for your area, go to Farmer’s Almanac at the following address:
https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates
When you see the following window, enter your zip code: [This image will not work. You must go to the Farmer’s Almanac::
What Is a Frost Date?
“A frost date is the average date of the last light freeze in spring or the first light freeze in fall.
“The classification of freeze temperatures is based on their effect on plants:
- Light freeze: 29° to 32°F (-1.7° to 0°C)—tender plants are killed.
- Moderate freeze: 25° to 28°F (-3.9° to -2.2°C)—widely destructive to most vegetation.
- Severe freeze: 24°F (-4.4°C) and colder—heavy damage to most garden plants.
“Note that frost dates are only an estimate based on historical climate data and are not set in stone. The probability of a frost occurring after the spring frost date or before the fall frost date is 30%, which means that there is still a chance of frost occurring before or after the given dates!” farmersalmaac
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